Tomato Cream Sauce with Orecchiette

By Steph Farrar

After a few months away from here (embarrassingly enough) I figured no better re-entry than a staple amongst tape. Tomato cream sauce with pasta, for literally everyone and everything. Welcome back to you as well.

After years working at home, while being a full-time mom, I recently landed a new job. I literally have no idea how I fit a blog post into my life, besides the fact that it's a priority.

The only two negatives of new job-ness are time away from this very site...and my family of course. Even at this very moment, while my 8-month old is crying himself to sleep, I'm still grateful for time to myself. Time to focus on progress, being a better mother, having something else to discuss at cocktail parties other than vomit, diaper changes, and milestones. So let's get to the sauce.

Simple ingredients never fail.

It's seasonally the end of summer, with the swift passing of Labor Day and a goodbye to white jeans (never in Cali), yet tomatoes are still delicious. While I used my favorite San Marzanos and a large handful of fresh cherubs, I wish I had a filling of those gorgeous heirlooms. Getting to the market lately is a privilege. However, this sauce never fails, in or out of season.

Grew that basil myself.

I'm not a big fan of sweet tomato sauce, see the Batali added carrot or Nigella added vidalia. I prefer salty, vodka-ish, closer to Ina's favorite sauce than any other. If I have to use a store-bought, I never buy anything other than Roa's Vodka Sauce, so my goal... replicate, minus vodka.

Get it in the pot and wait.

For this late summer dinner, Vesper and I had orecchiette pasta, one of my favorites... where the pasta scoops up the sauce in its little hat-ear, eats the parmesan alive and leaves it all for your buds. I wish I could say when I'm cooking I'm solely focused on the task at hand. In these brief moments of quiet calm, I steal away whatever time I have to catch up on my beloved game.

What was really happening while chopping

Tennis.

I shouldn't mention my extreme jealousy of anyone who attended the U.S. Open this year, especially because I'm married to one such person. My weeknight was so different from his.

Fave new appliance

And now for...without-shame-appliance-plug: The Baby Bullet.

It's not just for baby food, it's just cuter than the Magic Bullet. Same thing, with a smiley face. If only Flynn could have some of this sauce. He's so close to the joys of full-flavored food, yet seemingly so far. Maybe he'll be the first kid in our family to crave sushi, avocado and zucchini? Working on it with the bullet.

Pretty and pretty yummy

But maybe ground-up sushi is a no-no?

You'd think I'd have this down by now.

Tomato Cream Sauce with Orecchiette

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 onion, diced (not sweet, any but vidalia)

• 1 24 oz can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes

• large handful fresh cut cherry tomatoes, any variety

• pinch red pepper flakes (optional)

• 1 tsp freshly chopped thyme

• 1 tsp freshly chopped basil

• 2 pats butter (2 tbsp)

• either 1/4 cup cream or fresh / prepared ricotta

• 1 package orecchiette pasta

• salt and pepper to taste

 Directions:

Heat oil at medium high heat in a Dutch / French oven or heavy bottom pan.

Add onions and garlic and cook before browning, 4-5 minutes.

Hand crush San Marzanos over heated pan. Add additional sauce and fresh tomatoes. Add red pepper flake if using.

Simmer over medium low heat for about 30 minutes.

While sauce simmers, bring a large pot of water to boil. Add a large pinch of salt, just as it begins to boil. Add pasta and cook for 8-10 minutes. Drain, set aside.

Add thyme and basil to sauce about halfway through simmering process. Once tomatoes are cooked down, add butter, and either cream or ricotta, cook an additional 5-10 minutes.

Add a healthy pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper.

In a blender, Magic Baby Bullet or any other blending appliance, add sauce in batches until slightly blended... keep some chunks!

Reheat sauce in a shallow saute pan until barley simmering. Add drained pasta to incorporate sauce, making sure every little "hat" is full of that flavor.

Top with freshly grated parmesan and a pinch more of salt. Garnish with freshly torn basil leaves.

Good Food

Heirlooms.

By Sierra French Myerson

I have a standing date with Evan Kleiman on Saturday mornings at 11am.  I imagine, so do most of you?  For the hour that Good Food on KCRW airs, I'm completely in my comfort zone.  Farmer's market profiles, recipes, food historians, the weekly anticipated Jonathan Gold review, I'm always enthralled.

As a native of L.A., Evan Kleiman also means Angeli Caffe, which means childhood comfort food to me.  It opened in 1984 just a few blocks from my elementary school.  The ever-popular modern trattoria on Melrose Avenue was a mainstay of my best friend's family.  I remember many a night, pre sleepover, post long pool days, and definitely after school plays (we may have still been in our 4th grade "Fiddler on the Roof" make-up), devouring the Spaghetti alla Checca , and that bread…oh that bread.

Many years later and still close friends with her and her brother, we all rented a house together just down the street from Angeli.  We regularly went together and with other friends.  And, those many years later, the Checca was just as good.  The elegant simplicity of both the restaurant and the food never failed to deliver.  Though, in January of 2012, Evan Kleiman sadly decided to close Angeli's doors for good.  I may never have that pizza dough bread again, but I'd be damned if I couldn't somehow replicate the Checca.

A rough chop.

The true beauty of a checca is the ease of it.  It's a raw sauce generally consisting of ripe summer tomatoes, garlic and basil.  Chop, let macerate, and pour over perfectly al dente spaghetti.  Still to this day, when I eat this dish, I can feel my 8 year old hot pink post pool/bike riding cheeks slurping up the spaghetti and searching for more of the melty mozzarella.

Fresh mozzarella.

Spaghetti alla Checca

Influenced and adapted from Evan Kleiman's Angeli Caffe

What you'll need:

• Lots of ripe tomatoes, chopped (about 2 pints cherry or 5-6 large)

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• 1/2 -1 cup of good extra virgin olive oil

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 8 fresh basil leaves, gently torn

• 6-8 oz. fresh mozzarella, chopped and brought to room temperature

• 1 lb dried spaghetti

Directions:

In a large bowl, mix tomatoes, garlic, basil, salt, and pepper.  Add enough olive oil to cover the tomato mixture.  Let the sauce sit at room temperature for 2-3 hours. 

Cook the pasta in a large pot of heavily salted boiling water.  Trust the pasta experts here, take the pasta out 1 minute before the suggested time on the back of the package.  You definitely want that al dente bite with this fresh sauce. 

Pour pasta into a serving bowl.  Top with mozzarella and tomato mixture, and quickly mix well to coat.

Makes 4-6 servings.