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KitchenLit 101

It Starts With the Heart

Pearly's Malibu Salads

September 13, 2013 Farrar
Pearlys-Malibu-Salads-7.jpg

By Steph Farrar

I’m not a fan of words and insinuations like “luck” or “blessed” but if there were better choices to describe my new living situation, I would use them.

After a rushed sale and escrow from our beloved home in L.A., we are currently living with my in-laws, and I can’t help but feel a certain tinge of misdirected embarrassment coupled with absolute cozy wonder: something I didn’t quite expect when we made the choice to post up here in Malibu while we shop for a new roof over our heads. I feel snubbed by my own nose, turned up at living the good life in a Nantucket paradise, fed by an angelic woman who prides herself on taking care of family.

Random assortment for the grill

Random assortment for the grill

When I’m in Malibu at the Farrar’s home, I feel like I’ve been working the fields all day, sweating from picking strawberries, fingers bleeding from thorny roses. I only feel this way because I’m fed like I deserve it. I”m fed like a farmer whose crop is vibrant and productive, and whose hard manual labor merits a farm-to-table rainbow of flavor and color. Pearly (or Captain), as we call Sam’s mother, is the Masterchef of Sweetwater Mesa. She is den mother, head-of-household, gardener, seamstress, elegant hostess... the glue of the family. And I thank my stars she took to me so many years ago. Not just for the salads, but still...

That fine fine china

That fine fine china

I lived my elementary years on Missionary Ridge in Chattanooga, TN, with a rope swing in my front yard hung directly next to a Civil War canon, which permanently rests just next to several sun-drenched blackberry bushes. The vine-canopied lunch spot next to a small (now) koi pond hovered over a concrete table with a matching Southern-style lazy-susan. I can still taste my mom’s award-winning (mainly in size) zucchini, corn and peppers brushed with homemade butter, served with filets from my grill-master father. That old stone house was built over two hundred years ago and is still as strong as any fortress I’ve ever seen. It was haunted too, as you can imagine. Just like the taste of the summer vegetables, I can still feel that friendly ghost in my closet.

Growing up with a sparse yet plentiful garden on a battlefield Ridge, I never thought a California beach town could ever produce such substance, such homely, good ‘ole times-like warmth, until I stumbled upon Pearly’s garden. I love that our little girl is just the right height to pick the hard-to-reach tomatoes, and that as she ruffles the leaves, that tomato scent I wish to bottle fills the air.

The walk

The walk

Pearly's Malibu Salads 9

Pearly's Malibu Salads 9

I love the brisk walk to the end of the property where the large, protected grow boxes flaunt peppers, tomatoes, onions, lettuces, dozens of herbs for dinner: lamb chops and mashed potatoes, simple greens. Just beyond the scarecrow, her neighbors are making honey, boasting several large Warre harvest boxes, full of bees. Pearl’s garden is just beneath the hives, so you can imagine how her harvest fares.

Greens with red onion and cranberries, Caprese

Greens with red onion and cranberries, Caprese

After all these years, I discovered the thing I like best about Pearly’s salad: control. The way she plates a salad gives the grazer full control of what she wants and doesn’t want, and how she wants to dress it. I tend to use more lettuce than necessary in my salads. The good stuff always ends up at the bottom of the bowl. But Pearly places all the ingredients on a flat platter, including the lettuce. She lets you decide what you add to your plate and how you dress it. You’re the boss. Just greens and dressing? Great, have at it. Throw in some grilled bacon wrapped bananas, warm bread and cheese, and a gamut of marinated olives and gherkins, you’ve got yourself a Pearly lunch.

Let yourself feel lucky... and keep counting those blessings.

Just do it, don't ask questions

Just do it, don't ask questions

Pearly’s Malibu Salad #1

Ingredients:

  • Nice handful arugula

  • Small bunch of bitter greens

  • Leaves of two mint stalks, chopped

  • 6 oz sliced ham

  • 6 oz sliced roasted turkey

  • 2 plums, sliced

  • 1 peach, sliced

  • 6 oz sliced mozzarella cheese

  • 2 large heirloom ttomatoes, sliced

  • 1/2 red onion, chopped l

  • eaves of two basil stalks, chopped

  • 10 snap peas, chopped

  • 1 stalk celery, chopped

  • fresh warm crunchy bread

  • 10 oz. jarlsberg cheese

  • pickled onions

  • tomato chutney

  • olive oil

  • white balsalmic vinegar

  • salt and pepper

  Directions:

Layer the arugula, bitter greens and mint on a platter.

Roll ham and turkey, add to platter.

Place cut plums, peach, mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, red onion, peas, celery and carrots around the platter, creating a colorful array.

Serve sliced jarslburg with warm bread, chutney, onions... any salty addition you prefer.

Pile your favorites on a plate. Drizzle with oil and vinegar and season as you like.

Or don't. You're in control!

Pearly's Malibu Salads 1

Pearly's Malibu Salads 1

In Farrar, Salad, Summer Tags Arugula, Celery, Lettuce, Mozzarella, Peaches, Plums, Snap Peas, Tomato chutney, Tomatoes, batch2
4 Comments

Good Food

August 10, 2013 French
Checca5.jpg
Heirlooms.

Heirlooms.

By Sierra French Myerson

I have a standing date with Evan Kleiman on Saturday mornings at 11am.  I imagine, so do most of you?  For the hour that Good Food on KCRW airs, I'm completely in my comfort zone.  Farmer's market profiles, recipes, food historians, the weekly anticipated Jonathan Gold review, I'm always enthralled.

As a native of L.A., Evan Kleiman also means Angeli Caffe, which means childhood comfort food to me.  It opened in 1984 just a few blocks from my elementary school.  The ever-popular modern trattoria on Melrose Avenue was a mainstay of my best friend's family.  I remember many a night, pre sleepover, post long pool days, and definitely after school plays (we may have still been in our 4th grade "Fiddler on the Roof" make-up), devouring the Spaghetti alla Checca , and that bread…oh that bread.

Many years later and still close friends with her and her brother, we all rented a house together just down the street from Angeli.  We regularly went together and with other friends.  And, those many years later, the Checca was just as good.  The elegant simplicity of both the restaurant and the food never failed to deliver.  Though, in January of 2012, Evan Kleiman sadly decided to close Angeli's doors for good.  I may never have that pizza dough bread again, but I'd be damned if I couldn't somehow replicate the Checca.

A rough chop.

A rough chop.

The true beauty of a checca is the ease of it.  It's a raw sauce generally consisting of ripe summer tomatoes, garlic and basil.  Chop, let macerate, and pour over perfectly al dente spaghetti.  Still to this day, when I eat this dish, I can feel my 8 year old hot pink post pool/bike riding cheeks slurping up the spaghetti and searching for more of the melty mozzarella.

Fresh mozzarella.

Fresh mozzarella.

Spaghetti alla Checca

Influenced and adapted from Evan Kleiman's Angeli Caffe

What you'll need:

  • Lots of ripe tomatoes, chopped (about 2 pints cherry or 5-6 large)

  • 2 garlic cloves, minced

  • 1/2 -1 cup of good extra virgin olive oil

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • 8 fresh basil leaves, gently torn

  • 6-8 oz. fresh mozzarella, chopped and brought to room temperature

  • 1 lb dried spaghetti

Directions:

In a large bowl, mix tomatoes, garlic, basil, salt, and pepper.  Add enough olive oil to cover the tomato mixture.  Let the sauce sit at room temperature for 2-3 hours. 

Cook the pasta in a large pot of heavily salted boiling water.  Trust the pasta experts here, take the pasta out 1 minute before the suggested time on the back of the package.  You definitely want that al dente bite with this fresh sauce. 

Pour pasta into a serving bowl.  Top with mozzarella and tomato mixture, and quickly mix well to coat.

Makes 4-6 servings.

In French, Summer, Vegetarian Tags Basil, Garlic, Mozzarella, Pasta, Spaghetti, Tomatoes, batch2
5 Comments
 
 

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